Episode 026 | Fontodi - Young. Courageous. Full of energy. A conversation with Margherita Manetti
Margherita Manetti from the Fontodi winery in Panzano in Chianti
For a glass of wine with Margherita Manetti Visiting Fontodi in Panzano
When I think of Panzano, I think of the rolling hills of the Conca d'Oro, of the golden light in the late afternoon - and of Fontodi. This winery has been with me for a long time, but it was very special to talk to Margherita Manetti about the very place where she grew up.
We were sitting on a terrace of one of their agriturismo, overlooking the heart of the winery. And in the glass? The Chianti Classico 2022 - "our calling card", as Margherita calls it. A 100% Sangiovese that perfectly reflects the terroir of Panzano: fresh, structured, complex - and at the same time a wine for every day. Fun fact: even though it is classified as annata, it is aged for a full two years in wood - like a small Riserva, without saying so on the label. I love this understated style!
Family history with passion
Fontodi is a real family business - and you can feel that in every sentence Margherita says. Her grandfather bought the estate in 1968. The family was actually in the terracotta business - for generations! Wine was initially a passion. But it became much more. Today, Margherita, her brother Bernardo and her cousin Corso run the winery together with their father Giovanni Manetti.
While Bernardo and Corso are busy working in the cellar (and also experimenting with amphorae and a great feel for Sangiovese), Margherita has found the perfect role for herself: Export, sales, communication - and hostess with heart. I think telling stories about wine is as much in her blood as the Sangiovese in the vines.
From the vineyard to the glass - a holistic approach
Fontodi stands for quality - consistently from start to finish. The grapes are harvested by hand, every berry is selected, and gravity is used in the cellar. In the cellar, not only stainless steel and French barriques are used, but also amphorae from their own production - of course, the Manettis are also terracotta specialists.
And there's more: for over 15 years, the estate has had its own herd of Chianina cattle - not for meat production, but to produce high-quality compost with the manure. Biodynamic thinking, without dogma, but with conviction. Fontodi has also been officially certified organic since 2008.
The revolution called Flaccianello
And then there is this one wine, which for so many (including me) is inextricably linked with the name Fontodi: Flaccianello della Pieve. A true SuperTuscan, created at the beginning of the 1980s - back then as a table wine, because pure Sangiovese did not comply with the rules of Chianti Classico. Today it is a cult wine, an icon. And yes, it could have passed for a Gran Selezione long ago - but the family remains true to its history.
The name? It comes from the small church of San Leolino, just above the winery. The cross on the label is the cross in the chancel. It's impressive if you take the time to visit the church and look out for the cross.
Generational change with heart and mind
What particularly touched me: How naturally and at the same time reflectively the new generation has found its place in the family business. Margherita talks openly about her initial skepticism, her desire to go her own way - and how she joined the winery "just for a few months" in 2018. Today, she is the international face of Fontodi - full of passion and openness.
And she is not alone: her brother Bernardo brings a breath of fresh air to the cellar with his love of wines and his curiosity for new methods. Cousin Corso was in Australia for an internship - and also brought new ideas back to Panzano.
Panzano - the green heart of Chianti Classico
Fontodi is located in the heart of the biodistrict of Panzano, a unique association of female winegrowers who have been committed to organic farming for decades. Giovanni Manetti was a driving force behind it - and is now president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico. The fact that friendship and cooperation prevail here instead of competition is palpable. All the producers come together at the annual "Vino al Vino" festival - a highlight for all wine lovers!
And now?
I'm sure we'll be hearing a lot more from this new generation at Fontodi. And I will definitely be back soon - not only because the Chianti Classico is so wonderfully drinkable, but also because this place, these people and these wines are simply something very special.
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