Episode 026 | Fontodi - Young. Bold. Full of Energy. In conversation with Margherita Manetti - Part 1
Margherita Manetti is part of the young generation at the Fontodi winery
Having a glass of wine with Margherita Manetti, visiting Fontodi in Panzano
When I think of Panzano, I think of the gentle hills of Conca d'Oro, the golden light in the late afternoon – and Fontodi. This winery has been with me for a long time, but it was really special to talk with Margherita Manetti about this very place where she grew up.
We sat on a terrace at one of their agriturismos, overlooking the heart of the winery. And in the glass? The Chianti Classico 2022 – 'our business card,' as Margherita calls it. A 100% Sangiovese that perfectly reflects Panzano's terroir: fresh, structured, complex – and at the same time, an everyday wine. Fun Fact: Even though it's classified as an annata, it ages for a full two years in wood – like a mini Riserva, without putting it on the label. I love that understated style!
A Family History Full of Passion
Fontodi is a real family business – and you can feel that in every sentence Margherita says. Her grandfather bought the estate in 1968. The family was actually in the terracotta business – for generations! Wine was initially a passion. But it turned into much more. Today, Margherita, her brother Bernardo, and her cousin Corso run the winery together with their father, Giovanni Manetti.
While Bernardo and Corso are busy in the cellar (even experimenting with amphorae and a lot of feeling for Sangiovese), Margherita has found her perfect role: export, sales, communication – and a hostess with heart. I think storytelling about wine is just as much in her blood as Sangiovese is in the vines.
From Vineyard to Glass – Thinking Holistically
Fontodi stands for quality – consistently, from start to finish. The harvest is done by hand, every berry is selected, and in the cellar, they work with the help of gravity. In the cellar, they don't just use stainless steel and French barriques, but also amphorae from their own production – naturally, the Manettis are terracotta specialists after all.
And there's more: For over 15 years, the estate has had its own herd of Chianina cattle – not for meat production, but to create high-quality compost from their manure. It's a biodynamic approach, without dogma, but with conviction. Since 2008, Fontodi has also been officially organic certified.
The Revolution Called Flaccianello
And then there's that one wine that so many (including me) can't help but connect with the name Fontodi: Flaccianello della Pieve. A real Super Tuscan, it came about in the early 1980s – back then it was just a table wine because pure Sangiovese didn't fit the Chianti Classico rules. Today, it's a cult wine, an icon. And yeah, it could totally pass as a Gran Selezione by now – but the family is sticking to its roots.
The name? It comes from the small church of San Leolino, right above the winery. The cross on the label is the one from the altar inside the church. It's pretty impressive if you take some time to visit the church and look for that cross.
Changing Generations with Heart and Mind
What really touched me was how naturally, yet thoughtfully, the new generation has found their place in the family business. Margherita openly shared about her initial doubts, wanting to forge her own path – and how she ended up coming to the winery in 2018, "just for a few months." Today, she's the international face of Fontodi – full of passion and openness.
And she's not alone: Her brother Bernardo brings a breath of fresh air to the cellar with his love for wines and his curiosity for new methods. Their cousin Corso did an internship in Australia – and brought back some fresh ideas to Panzano too.
Panzano – the green heart of Chianti Classico
Fontodi is right in the middle of Panzano's Biodistrict, a unique group of winemakers who have been committed to organic farming for decades. Giovanni Manetti was a driving force behind it – and today he's the President of the Consorzio Chianti Classico. You can really feel that friendship and collaboration rule here, not competition. All the producers gather at the annual "Vino al Vino" festival – it's a highlight for all wine lovers!
So, what's next?
I'm sure we'll hear a lot more from this new generation at Fontodi. And I'll definitely be back soon – not just because the Chianti Classico is so wonderfully easy to drink, but because this place, these people, and these wines are just something truly special.
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