#LongingForChiantiClassico: A Chat with Alessia Riccieri from Antico Podere Gagliole Winery
My New Blog Series
As you probably know, I keep a sort of "Wine and Chianti Diary" here on my blog. It's all about the Chianti Classico wines I've tasted, the places I've visited, and most importantly, the people I've met – like winemakers, winery staff, and restaurateurs. Many of them have actually become good friends over my many, many visits. Right now, though, Italy has sadly become a tragic epicenter of the Corona epidemic, which is keeping the whole world on edge.
Despite everything – or maybe even because of it – I'm trying to stay in touch with my friends in Panzano during these tough times. We chat on the phone, email, or even "meet up" for an aperitivo via video call. They tell me how they're doing these days, but we also talk about how things can – and have to – move forward. Since I kind of see myself as a heartfelt ambassador for Chianti Classico, and I've been asked a lot lately about how people there are doing, I want to share my conversations with the folks in Chianti Classico with you over the next few weeks in my new blog series #ChiantiClassicoWanderlust – and also the deep affection that connects me with the people and this amazing area.
The terraces at Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti
Antico Podere Gagliole: One winery – two locations
My new blog series #ChiantiClassicoWanderlust kicks off with my chat with Alessia Riccieri, who's in charge of marketing and sales at the Antico Podere Gagliole winery. The winery, owned by the Swiss Bär-Bettschart family since 1990, is partly located in Castellina in Chianti. Ten hectares of land nestle against the cypress-lined, traditionally terraced hills that stretch around the stately estate.
In 2011, Thomas Bär added to the family estate by acquiring the La Valletta property in Panzano in Chianti. This includes ten hectares of vineyards nestled in the famous Conca d'Oro – that's the golden, shell-shaped valley with its perfect microclimatic conditions for growing grapes.
La Valletta in Panzano in Chianti
At La Valletta, which has been transformed into a beautiful Bed & Breakfast, Edi and Giuliana take wonderful care of their guests. Over the past two years, a brand new, state-of-the-art wine cellar was built at La Valletta. This means grapes from the vineyards in Castellina and Panzano can now be processed in one place and ripen under the best conditions. The 2019 harvest was already made into wine in the new cellar, and the two cellar masters, Cesare and Giulio, were super happy with how the harvest went, the new processes, and the new tech in the new "cantina".
Plus, new event spaces were set up at La Valletta, hoping that happy celebrations can be held there in the future. And finally, all the winery's administrative offices moved from Castellina to Panzano.
Giulio from Gagliole winery during the 2019 harvest in the new cellar
The 2018 Rubiolo – Gagliole's Chianti Classico – was still presented at the Chianti Classico Collection in Florence back in February. So, the start of 2020 seemed to be a success in every way. And then Corona hit... and changed everything.
Living and working in the shadow of the virus
Here's the situation in Chianti Classico right now: You can't cross your town's borders without special permission, and the Carabinieri are keeping a close eye on this. All businesses that don't produce essential goods had to close – including the wineries. Even if, under certain circumstances, you could totally argue that Chianti Classico is essential for survival...
But of course, health comes first. And that's how they see it at Gagliole too: "All the necessary work in the cellar and the super urgent vineyard tasks can still be done, despite the restrictions. Of course, we're making sure to keep contact between people to a minimum. Because our main goal is to protect the health of all our team members," Alessia explains.
All the administrative staff, like Alessia, Serenella, and Cosimo, are currently working from home. The Bed & Breakfast is closed. While Stefano is managing the warehouse, it's almost impossible to arrange transport from Italy right now. We're just hoping that things will get a little better with transport in the week after Easter.
Alessia from Gagliole winery chatting with Nina in Chianti at La Valletta
Fragile like a young shoot: The hope for normality
In the cellar, Giulio and Cesare are taking turns with the essential tasks. "Because for the 2019 vintage, there are crucial steps needed in the cellar right now: After fermentation finishes in the steel tanks, the wine has to be transferred into barrels. This is work that needs a lot of finesse and, most importantly, knowing exactly the right moment to do it. So, it's not something that can just be postponed for a few weeks," Alessia explains. And she continues: "As paradoxical as it might seem given the human tragedies we face every day, nature doesn't take a break. Everything is growing and thriving." In other words: The vines need to be prepped for the new wine year.
Around the new cellar at La Valletta, trees and bushes were planted to help the whole place blend beautifully into the landscape. What's more, a new four-hectare Sangiovese vineyard called Cappella Dei Pesci was just established between Panzano and Badia a Passignano. Thanks to its amazing terroir, Cappella Dei Pesci is set to become a really important part of Gagliole's production in the coming years. "All of this is happening," Alessia emphasizes, "in the hope that things will continue. That we'll get back to some normality soon. That the winery will keep going."
Antico Podere Gagliole
Hang in there and look positively to the future
For now, though, we still need to hang in there. "Even if we can only see each other via Skype or talk on the phone right now, our first thought is always about the other person's health. The challenges we're facing, both as individuals and as a community," Alessia says, "are worrying us. But we're trying to support each other as much as we can." Because the most important thing in this situation is to try and look positively towards the future. Alessia smiles and quotes Voltaire: "The bravest choice you can make every single day is to be in a good mood. Even if it's not always easy right now..."
And even if I can't see Alessia and everyone else at Gagliole and La Valletta in person right now, I'm still absolutely convinced that we'll see each other again soon, give big hugs, and toast to life with a glass of Chianti Classico – what else? ?
The unique view from La Valletta into the Conca d'Oro of Panzano in Chianti
Special discount #LongingForChiantiClassico for Easter
The Bär-Bettschart family spontaneously decided to offer a 20% discount on all Gagliole wines, starting now until April 13, 2020, as a thank you to all customers supporting Gagliole during these tough times. Available, of course, at NinainChianti.com, with free shipping for Germany and Austria.
So that we can all continue to enjoy the wines from our beloved Tuscany, despite, or especially during, these difficult times. A sip of Gagliole wine might also help you remember a holiday spent at La Valletta, those wonderful moments in Chianti. And most importantly, in the hope that these days will soon be over and the Gagliole team will be able to welcome guests again. And that we can all raise a glass together again.