Panzano in Chianti: My (second) great love!
NinainChianti
They always say that in life, you only find true, great love once… But I have to tell you: that's not entirely true. Of course, first and foremost, way above everything else, there's my husband – my life partner, my better half. But: I managed to fall head over heels in love a second time in my life. And it happened, of all places, on a trip with my husband. Back in 1998, while driving through Tuscany, we stumbled upon this wonderful, special place: Panzano in Chianti. And then I came back. And came back. And came back…
Outdoor Office
Nowadays, I spend several months a year in Panzano in Chianti. A lot of that time is spent with “my” winemakers in vineyards and cellars, and with my friends. But I also use a good chunk of my Panzano time to work on the terrace that belongs to the agriturismo apartment where I've been staying for years. This place has become a little bit “mine” over the years: my little wall where I often drink my breakfast cappuccino or a glass of wine in the glow of the setting sun – very often with friends too! My fireplace, which I love to light in the evenings. My blackbird, who visits me hoping for a piece of bread. And since I'm here quite often, I've gotten to know many Panzanese. Those who were born here. But also those who came from far away and, like me, fell in love with this wonderful spot on earth.
Around the Piazza – where the heart of Panzano beats!
Enoteca Baldi
Bar la Curva
Il Palagio di Panzano
Of course, when I think of Panzano, the Piazza immediately comes to mind! It's truly the heart of the town. Here you'll find everything you need for a (good) life. And that, of course, includes: food and drink! One of my favorite spots is Enoteca Baldi. People meet up at Mimmo's, the owner's place: for a snack and a glass of Franciacorta at lunchtime. In the evenings, for a plate of pasta with a glass of wine. The tables right on the Piazza under the trees next to the fountain are especially popular on warm summer evenings. But even inside at the bar or at one of the tables, you can easily chat away an evening. Directly opposite Mimmo's is Bar La Curva – and here, “nomen est omen” (the name says it all) really applies. In my opinion, the bar on the curve has the best espresso in all of Chianti. Add a brioche and a chat – perfetto for starting your day. A tip for all sweet tooths: owner Salvatore makes excellent gelato. At the other end of the Piazza, Il Cardo – a mix between a café, bistro, wine bar, and restaurant – invites you to eat, drink, and shop. Because here you can not only taste wines by the glass from practically all the winemakers represented in the Unione di Vitcoltori di Panzano, but also buy them. By the way, since we're on the Piazza – a little reminder: this is exactly where the annual wine festival Vino al Vino takes place from September 13th to 16th, 2018. So, it's an absolute must for anyone who wants to try the best Chianti Classico wines. And of course, I'll be there again this year – it's a given! One more tip: If you want to get a little taste of wine beforehand, it's best to make a quick detour to the wine shop of Il Palagio di Panzano, which is just a few hundred meters below the Piazza on the road towards Castellina.
Antica Macelleria Cecchini: The place to meet Dario and eat meat…
Dario Cecchini
Just around the corner from the Piazza, you'll find Panzano's international hotspot: Antica Macelleria Cecchini with its famous (or infamous!) owner, Dario Cecchini. It really gets lively here: AC/DC blasts from the speakers right in the salesroom, tons of people are bustling around, wine is being poured, and you can taste the famous fennel salami, Chianti butter, and other delicacies. When Dario blasts his trumpet, it's time to “come to the table!” Because attached to the butcher shop is a restaurant that combines three food concepts: First, there's the Officina della Bistecca. Here, you can let a Bistecca alla Fiorentina or a Bistecca la Panzanese, fresh from the charcoal grill in the middle of the room, melt in your mouth. With the second concept, the name says it all: Solociccia means “only meat” – and that's exactly what's served: just meat. Concept number three: “Dario Doc” – where you get a burger without a bun, but with lots of sides, excellent homemade mustard, and spicy paprika sauce. You can also eat other specialties from Macelleria Cecchini here. Fun fact: the Macelleria also offers a “Menu Vegetariano”…
Heading up high to Alto Panzano for a view over the Conca d´Oro
If you need a little walk to digest all those delicious Dario treats, you should head up to Alto Panzano – that's the historic part of Panzano. On the way, you'll pass Macelleria Checcucci. If you haven't had enough meat delights yet, you can shop for excellent sausages, prosciutto, salami, and other goodies to your heart's content here! Let me tell you: those back home will love these kinds of "souvenirs." If you keep following the road up, you'll reach the Chiesa Santa Maria, which dates back to the 13th century. From up here, you can let your gaze wander over the famous golden, shell-shaped valley with the beautiful name Conca d'Oro, on the edge of which Panzano in Chianti lies. And in this beautiful setting, you'll naturally find many of the wineries that are available in my online shop.
Here's a little help
On my very own Google "My Maps" map, you can find my favorite spots and wineries, read my comments about them, and get all the info you need to maybe make a reservation. Have fun visiting Panzano in Chianti!