#LongingForChiantiClassico: A Chat with Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi from Rocca di Montegrossi
Rocca di Montegrossi
The Corona pandemic is still keeping the world on edge. Especially in Italy, the virus has left its tragic mark, affecting both people and the economy. Things are only slowly starting to look up. Meanwhile, in my blog series #SehnsuchtChiantiClassico, I've been trying to tell you how my friends at the NinainChianti.com wineries are doing and what everyday life looks like during these Corona times. This week, I chatted with Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi, owner of Rocca di Montegrossi winery, who told me how he and his family are doing during these tough days. We also talked about why Marco is still looking positively towards the future, even with everything on hold because of Corona.
Rocca di Montegrossi: A Chianti Classico Classic
The Rocca di Montegrossi winery covers about 100 hectares near the village of Monti in Chianti. 20 hectares are planted with vines, another 20 with olive trees, and the rest is forest. On 13 of those hectares, right in the historic heart of Chianti Classico, they grow Sangiovese – the star grape of the region.
The stony, lime-rich soil gives the Sangiovese a really authentic, traditional taste. Other local varieties like Canaiolo, Colorino, Pugnitello, and Malvasia Bianco di Toscana also thrive here. The owner is Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi, a descendant of the famous Ricasoli family from Tuscany. This family is super connected to the history of the region and Chianti Classico – Bettino Ricasoli is even known for inventing the Chianti "formula."
Even today, Marco really values tradition and classic methods. And because of that – or maybe exactly because of that – all his wines are organically certified.
Heading into 2020 with a Positive Outlook
Rocca di Montegrossi is truly a unique gem in Chianti Classico and has been a staple in my selection for many, many years, which I'm super happy about. It's a winery that's really in a league of its own.
And Marco is just like that: simply incomparable! One special thing Marco always does to kick off the new year is to look back at the old one and forward to the new. And that's exactly what he did in January 2020: Marco proudly and happily looked back at a fantastic 2019 – a year full of good things and a great harvest – meaning excellent prospects for amazing wines. Marco was super confident about himself and his winery for 2020 and planned and made further investments, like buying new tractors and installing new solar panels.
Back at the "Chianti Classico Collection" wine fair in February, I got to taste Marco's fantastic new vintages – and as always, Rocca di Montegrossi showed off an incredibly consistent quality across all vintages.
And then Corona hit…
…and changed everything. Even for Marco and his family with two young kids: "Life as we knew it just stopped overnight. Like someone hit the pause button." The pallet with my delivery was already packed and ready to go, but now it had to stay put and wait for its transport.
Of course, life went on in some ways, just like at many other wineries, but with strict curfews and lots of other restrictions. Still, thankfully, one of Marco's projects could be completed: a new vineyard with Sangiovese vines was planted.
However, Rocca di Montegrossi had another problem to deal with this spring: frost. "We've had frost damage on about 20 percent of the vines – mostly the Sangiovese plants," Marco explains. That's because Sangiovese usually buds a bit earlier than other grape varieties, which unfortunately became its downfall this time.
What's more, according to the winemaker, it mostly affected vines trained using the "Guyot pruning" method, which encourages the plants to bud even earlier. Marco further explains: "The frozen shoots won't be able to bear fruit this year or next." But we'll see if time can heal some of these wounds.
Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi from Rocca di Montegrossi in his aging cellar
Amazing New Wines – Great Prospects!
There's good news for me – and of course for everyone who appreciates Rocca di Montegrossi wines! The new vintages, after a bit of a longer wait on the pallet, are now on their way to Austria and will hopefully arrive with me soon!
I also chatted with Marco again about his wines, and I'm just as thrilled as I am every year by the amazing work Marco and his team at Rocca di Montegrossi have done. These vintages hitting the market now are simply fantastic! First up, perfect for spring, is the Rosato 2019, which Marco says "stands out with beautiful fruit aromas and a lovely structure," and, as is typical for Rocca di Montegrossi, brings a slight saltiness to your tongue. Chilled, it's perfect as an aperitif, but also a great match for light dishes – and as always, unmistakably Rocca di Montegrossi.
The Chianti Classico 2018 is a real highlight. According to Marco, we can expect "a spectacular Sangiovese fruit aroma in what is probably one of the best Chianti Classicos ever produced at Rocca di Montegrossi." Marco says the reason for this is that 2018 was a very balanced growing season climate-wise. It was warm, but not too warm. It always rained at just the right time, not too much or too little. All in all: a standout vintage you should definitely remember.
Rocca di Montegrossi
Of course, the star wine from Rocca di Montegrossi is also included in the delivery: the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Marcellino 2015, which Marco is also really happy with. Even though San Marcellino usually benefits from a few years of aging and rest before showing its best side, the 2015 San Marcellino is already super approachable and enjoyable as a young wine, without sacrificing tannins or structure. Why? Even Marco isn't entirely sure. He thinks the quality of the grapes in 2015 was just perfect. A little tip from the winemaker: "If you open a 2015 San Marcellino now, let it breathe and rest in the glass for 20 minutes. That way, the wine's full potential can unfold."
Also included in the delivery: The Geremia 2015 – Rocca di Montegrossi's international Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. And again, Marco is thrilled and raves about its freshness, the elegance of its dark berry aromas, and its lovely finish. The Geremia 2016 will also be in the delivery, but we'll have to wait a bit for Marco's description. But since all the previous vintages were so wonderful, I've definitely pre-ordered it for you – and for me!
So, we can be happy – even in these tough times. And hopefully, we'll soon be toasting to better times with a glass of Rocca di Montegrossi!