Back to Panzano!

Nina in Chianti is back in Panzano

My #ChiantiClassicoLonging has been satisfied

The time has come – my #ChiantiClassicoLonging is over! Because right now, as I'm writing these lines, I'm sitting in my favorite spot in Panzano in Chianti, feet up on the little stone wall, laptop on my lap. The vineyards are glowing a lush green, my coffee is competing with the lavender in scent, and the bees are buzzing busily. 

Yes, I've put an end to my longing wait and made my way to Tuscany. Now I'm finally back here in my beloved Panzano! And what can I say: it's just sooooooo nice to be back, to meet my friends and see that everyone's doing well, that life goes on. In the past few days, I've met and chatted with lots of people – and I want to tell you a little bit about that today.

Finally back 'home' in Panzano!

As you all know, the borders to Italy reopened on June 15th and 16th, 2020. Meaning: you can now travel in and out of Italy from Austria and Germany again. The only exception is Lombardy, which still has a travel warning. At that point, there was no holding me back, and my husband and I headed straight for Panzano. We left Salzburg in pouring rain, and it was still absolutely bucketing down at the Brenner Pass. But when I finally spotted the 'Italy' border sign through the rainy haze, my emotions just couldn't be contained either. What a feeling it was to be able to cross the border again, to be allowed to see my friends again! 

🇮🇹 Italia 🇮🇹

Finally, in mid-June, it was allowed to cross the border into Italy again.

Just to give you a hint: I also sent this photo to my friends in Panzano, basically saying 'I'm on my way!' And what can I say? So much joy, so much happiness, and so many happy tears – but those are always the best kind, right? Good thing my husband was driving! When we arrived in Panzano around lunchtime, we headed straight to Enoteca Baldi on Panzano's piazza for lunch. It felt just like coming home: so many people greeted us! So many were thrilled to see us back! And oh, how happy we were to be there again!

Finally back 'home': on the piazza in Panzano in Chianti.

The Corona Rules in Italy

Of course, all greetings and meetings are happening with all the hygiene rules in mind, keeping a proper distance – that's one meter between people who don't live in the same household – and wearing a mask. Because in Italy, masks are still mandatory in shops, pharmacies, when entering and leaving a restaurant, and in all public places and on public transport. The rules are pretty similar to what was in place in Germany and Austria until recently.

Made by Nina in Chianti

Face masks made from Vino al Vino carrier bags from previous years

Everything a foodie's heart desires

In all the restaurants, they've moved tables further apart to create more space and distance, and it actually works really well. But as is typical in Panzano this time of year anyway, life often happens outdoors in the fresh air, which makes it super easy to stick to the social distancing rules. Some restaurants are open as usual, some have limited hours, and a few offer their dishes as take-away. But hey, that can be nice too: enjoying the sunset on your own terrace with amazing food from a restaurant. If you want to eat out, I'd recommend calling a day or two ahead to book a table. That way, you can be sure your chosen restaurant is open and you'll have a spot.

Dreamy conditions for a vacation in Tuscany

Of course, the tourism situation right now is a bit paradoxical: for guests, it's a dream come true in Chianti and all of Tuscany. That's because there are hardly any tourists around! It's kind of like the relaxed vibe in February, where you only bump into a few guests. The difference is that now it's warm, everything is green and blooming, and you can go swimming in the agriturismo pools – usually pretty much undisturbed. And while these are huge perks for tourists, they're obviously an absolute disaster for everyone in Tuscany who relies on tourism.

My Friends, My Winemakers

Of course, I also made the most of the last few days to visit my friends and wineries and have a good chat with them: Marco Ricasoli at Rocca di Montegrossi, Michael Schmelzer at Monte Bernardi, Vicky Schmitt-Vitali at Le Fonti, and Alessia Riccieri from Gagliole winery at La Valetta. We talked about how they're doing right now and what they're expecting in the coming months. Everyone agreed on one thing: meteorologically speaking, it was an exceptionally beautiful spring, like we haven't seen in years. This meant all the vineyard work could be done without a hitch – though, of course, with social distancing. So, there's hope that 'at least' the 2020 vintage will be outstanding. Definitely a vintage that will stick in all our minds.

Visiting the new Gagliole winery with Alessia Riccieri

There's also some news from Enoteca Baldi! The next generation already took over the reins last year: Eleonora, Mimmo's oldest daughter, and her partner Gianmaria now run the wine shop and look after the guests. Mimmo himself and his second daughter Kika are in the kitchen, whipping up real delights in the small 'cucina' – best enjoyed at a shady table right on the piazza. An added bonus: thanks to Gianmaria's passion for wine, the wine list has grown a lot! Eleonora and Gianmaria also welcomed a new arrival themselves back in January. But because of Corona, Gianmaria's mom only got to see the baby for the first time now in June.

Enoteca Baldi on the Piazza in Panzano in Chianti

Others, on the other hand, sometimes wished for a bit more 'distance' from their families! For example, Elisa from Rocca di Montegrossi winery was stuck in an apartment with her two kids for six weeks, and they weren't allowed to leave. So, it's no surprise that the Friday when Elisa 'got to' work at the winery office felt like a mini-vacation every time. One way or another, the Corona quarantine was a tough time for families, for all of Italy. A painful time that will probably leave its scars. But for now, it seems like that time is finally behind us. 

Nevertheless – or maybe precisely because of all this – I can only warmly recommend that everyone spend their vacation right now here in Chianti, in the heart of Tuscany. Of course, always with distance and good judgment. Avoiding crowds isn't too hard here at the moment. Infection rates in Tuscany, and especially in Chianti, have been and still are low. Right now, you have the chance to experience this region in a way that won't come around again anytime soon. And if Corona has taught me anything, it's that you should seize and enjoy every single moment!

Vacation in Chianti - here at Il Palagio di Panzano